raspberries, rhubarb and cream

a 10-minute spring dessert with sour gummy vibes

i had raw rhubarb for the first time when i was about 12. the young, thin, sweet and sour stalks came directly from my grandparents’ garden and, dipped in sugar, were ethereal. since that core rhubarb-related memory, i’ve never been able to find such thin, sweet stalks, as farmers markets and supermarket shelves are more likely to run rampant with longer, fatter stems of the veg.

every time i see rhubarb coming back in season, marking spring and the abundance to follow, i still think about those bites of raw rhubarb. i love the way rhubarb sort of melts when it’s roasted, the lovely pink color seeping through the stalk, or the way it adds a sour-tart edge to a fruit crumble, pie or galette, but this year, i wondered if there were others who enjoy that pure rhubarb flavor matched with a crisp, almost celery-like bite that you can only get from it raw. i scoured the internet for a sweet recipe that left the veg uncooked. i couldn’t find one, so i decided to make it myself.

inspired by alison roman’s raspberries and cream, the cover star of her latest cookbook, this version adds raw, macerated rhubarb to the lightly smashed raspberries. other than that, it’s the same. and i wanted to keep that way, because i just love how simple it is, how perfectly this quick, practically no-recipe dessert can fold up into your back pocket for a rainy day — no cream whipping, no cooking, no fuss. watch me make it here.

as with just about all of my recipes, i encourage you think about switching it up a bit. a layer of crushed shortbread, butter cookies, toasted nuts, flakes of coconut or vanilla scented whipped cream would not be out of place here. however (!), this simple recipe, as is, is a revelation. i hope you enjoy it, and give raw rhubarb a chance. to me, it sort of channels a sour gummy flavor, with a gentle, vegetal crispness. it’s a bit crazy, a bit wild, certainly not for everyone, but (imho) very delicious.

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serves 2, this recipe is an adaptation of raspberries and cream from sweet enough by alison roman

50 grams rhubarb

3 teaspoons sugar

125 grams raspberries

6 tablespoons sour cream

1. slice the rhubarb lengthwise into two or three pieces, then slice crosswise into small cubes. add to a small bowl, sprinkle with 2 teaspoons of the sugar and mix well to combine. let sit for at least 5 minutes to let the sugar draw out come the juices from the rhubarb.

2. once the rhubarb has rested, add the raspberries to a separate small bowl and lightly smash, adding the remaining sugar. you want some larger pieces of raspberries and some juice, so just a few smashes with a fork should already be enough.

3. add a little bit of sour cream to two clear glasses or serving bowls. add some rhubarb and raspberries, then more sour cream, layering until you reach the top of the glass or bowl. you can layer in some crumbled or crushed cookies as well here if you want, like simple vanilla wafers, graham crackers or even crumbled lady fingers; toasted nuts are also nice here, especially pistachios or almonds. serve immediately.